Then the rear was much easier with jacking one side fo the rear jack point and placing a jack stand under the rear subframe, then did the othe side and now had all 4 wheels off the ground. Once up, I had clearance to ge the bigger jack under the center jack point, jacked up the front and placed the two jack stands under the plastic block jacking points. One is I think your heavy duty 5,000lbs rated and the other a smaller Discount Auto type cheapy but still rated to 4,000lbs.Īnyway, couldn't get either jack under the front center jacking point so had to jack up one side of the front up by the black plastic jacking blocks just rear of the front wheel. What I did was purchased 4 stands and 2 jacks. Obviously, ppl (People) use jack stands.I've had to put my M3 on stands at all four points once to send off my BBK for painting. Do ppl put the stands there? They'd have to be considerably higher, and there are times when they'd be in the way. On the Cobalt, there is a cross-member at the front of the cradle. If, instead, the jack stand is put under the engine cradle with just the front of the car elevated, ISTM (It Seems To Me) the stand would just make contact with the cradle along one edge, which seems unstable to me.Further, the notch in those does not support the side of the pinch flange the way the OE jack does. The jack stands I see would bear the weight on rocker panel and the floor pan. The OE (Original Equipment) jack designed for that location is shaped to carefully cradle and support the flange. But, the geometry of the stand top seems totally wrong for this. Intuitively (to me), and per a lot of online advice, the stands should go on under the pinch weld.I have never understood jack stands WRT (With Respect To) unibody cars. I'm not bragging - some of that was wrong (blocking under the control arm) - but no disasters. I've been putting cars up for 50 years, using various jacks and then blocking under the frame.
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